How To Remove Broken Bleeder Screw On Brake Caliper
[quote="Labrat0116″ mail=173584]How does one remove a stripped bleeder spiral from a brake caliper without removing the caliper from the vehicle ?
1998 Dodge Dakota 2WD Left Forepart.
TIA[/quote]
is the treads stripped or the caput stripped….
I would try a flare wrench first and see if that works…. there are some sockets that you can attempt to get it off.. but some of them req impacts guns to apply them… if you can upload a moving picture of that yous have I can give you a amend idea
Go a socket that is besides small, hammer it on and then try.
Impact gun would piece of work best, otherwise use a breaker bar and apply abrupt hits to it to give it some shock force.
I'd likewise heat the area effectually it first.
bolt extractor sockets are the all-time but req an bear upon
[quote="CrazedAssassin" postal service=173615]Get a socket that is besides small, hammer it on and then try.
Touch on gun would work best, otherwise use a billow bar and apply sharp hits to it to give it some stupor strength.
I'd also oestrus the surface area around information technology first.[/quote]
dont use a torch utilise a heat gun only…
1. I think intermission fuild is famable
2. you would be working very shut to the brake line hose and would melt it
Brake line hose is right simply brake fluid ignites at 1065°.
It's practiced to annotation this though.
Mostly when I talk to DIYers that are doing things at home I call up of them using 1 of those little propane torches to heat the metal.
[quote="CrazedAssassin" post=173699]Restriction line hose is right only brake fluid ignites at 1065°.
It'south practiced to note this though.
Mostly when I talk to DIYers that are doing things at home I think of them using one of those little propane torches to heat the metal.[/quote]
propane torch temperature ane,995 degrees Celsius (three,623 degrees Fahrenheit).
Mapp is 2925 °C (5300 °F)
ya, if yous use a estrus gun you lot shouldnt be able to get that high… but the hose I dont know what temp they are rated at… should say on the hose just I count find whatsoever hose spec online
*shrug* the torch shouldn't be heating the fluid direct though since it's on the caliper.Heat absorption.
I just assumed a little common sense of not lighting the vehicle on burn was a given. Lol.
[quote="Rob781″ post=173688]bolt extractor sockets are the all-time but req an impact[/quote]
Adept thought! After watching one of Eric's videos many moons agone, I went out and bought a x-piece Craftsman "Damaged" Bolt/Nut Remover" Gear up.
Here is a similar one I found on line:
http://tinyurl.com/zgs74u4
Prolly found information technology on sale as I doubt I paid more than $20 for the set. As it turned out, I did utilize information technology recently on the restriction job I was working on. Works just fine with my 3/8-in drive socket wrench. If something is really stuck I give Atomic number 82 Equalizer a hazard to work and hit it over several days. Then some borer on the socket equally force is practical, I have institute helps too. The tapping may not replicate the movement of the bear on wrench, but any movement tangential to the strength applied tends to help in breaking things costless. Of grade a cheater bar can give some extra UMPGH to the situation likewise. I think I'd try all of that BEFORE applying "The Big Cherry Wrench!"
Oh and I assume new bleeder screws will be installed? Don't forget to clean up the threads on the caliper before installing a new one. Also, in my contempo brake job, I too used a scant amount of anti-seize on the threads of the new bleeder screw. Want to make sure to not become any on the terminate (seat) and contaminate the brake fluid.
Also think about getting some speed bleeders, if you are buying new. I found a pair for my rear brakes on eBay at a whopping $viii, shipped to me! They were listed every bit Honda Motorbike bleeders, but the thread pitch was the aforementioned and they were just 10mm longer than the OE ones, but had plenty of room to fit them in.
ya thats one matter bad nigh those commodities extrator sockets… they actually eat upwards the head but they are the best with impacts and the impact assistance to brake up the dirt inside of it as well and I havent really founds annihilation amend then them….. I dont call back I would utilize anti-seize on a bleader screw considering your passing fuild through information technology… and might cause problems with the caliper but information technology you did already I wouldnt worry to much…. besides dont forget to get new copper washer for the new bleader screw
[quote="Rob781″ post=173777]. I dont think I would use anti-seize on a bleader screw because your passing fuild through it… and might cause bug with the caliper merely it you did already I wouldnt worry to much…. also dont forget to get new copper washer for the new bleader screw[/quote]
OK what am I missing? How would a very small corporeality of anti-seize on the threads (only) of a restriction bleeder screw effect the brakes in a bad style?
Practice I have this correct? When ane is bleeding the brakes the fluid flows around the opened seat points and into the hole on the side and out through the center of the spiral. Then it seems like very little if any fluid should contact the threads (and thus any applied anti-seize), if at all. Since things flow the path of least resistance isn't brake fluid more than likely to flow through the bleeder screw and out, rather than try to exit the threads?
Does any restriction fluid come in contact with the threads when the bleeder screw is tightened down and sealed at the seat?
IF i slops anti-seize on the seat or lower section of the bleeder screw, I tin meet when the two fluids could mix and event things.
Then that is the way I am thinking well-nigh information technology. But realize that those with much more than experience aren't supporting the use of anti-seize hither, so at that place must exist something I am missing? Can someone clarify and assist out?
You can apply a tiny corporeality of the same , unremarkably blue, silicone grease they employ when assembling calipers and restriction cylinders.
why I said about anti-seize is when yous aply it there is 2 times information technology has chances to go far the lower part… when yous put the screw in y'all will not put it in acactly you will try to wibble it in to get it in… therefore getting information technology on the wall of the spiral pigsty and when you screw the spiral in you can then put it in deeps of the hole…. the other thing is when yous put information technology on the threds…when you spiral it in it will sweeze in both directions and can then go deeper in the hole… almost of information technology will be very picayune just could become in the organisation… simply if it did shouldnt cause to much of a problem but anti-seize when it drys gets gritty and could cause problems and anit- seze has particals in it to help information technology self from siezing and that might cause bug
Alittle anti-seize on the threads won't hurt
Source: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/forums/topic/how-to-remove-a-stripped-bleeder-screw/
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